Panama, Panama City, David, Boca del Toro

Wednesday 5th After a hearty ala carte breakfast at our hotel our guide who spoke good English but with an accent that sounded strangely German took us to the archaeological ruins of Old Panama and the museums there where we got a good look at the history of the city from the beginnings. We found it was laid to waste at the hand of the pirate Morgan in the 1600's and then slowly rebuilt to what it is today. Then to the Casco Viejo or Old Town to wander the narrow streets lined with buildings some dating back to it's founding. Stopped briefly at the Iglesia de San Felipe Neri where a lady spent years collecting parts and assembling a unique nativity scene. After that we drove out on the Amador Causeway to one of the four islands for a wonderful fresh fish lunch in an open air restaurant. Next was the locks, a must for all tourists I suppose. But frankly we were a bit disappointed. The observation deck was small and filled with hoards of people lifting their cell phones above each others heads to catch one ship slowly making it's way through. Our guide was thankful we didn't stay to see the hour long movie on the locks, as both of us knew the history fairly well from other sources. On talking to our guide on the way back we found she was German but had been living in Panama for years and she spoke fluent German, English, French and Spanish. And I have to work at English to get it right.
		Nativity scene at the Inglesia church

		Thursday 6th Our guide came early as our destination was the Parque Nacional Soberania some miles north. From the small town of Gamboa we took a skiff out to the large Gatun Lake to see all sorts of animal life from lizards to monkeys to raptors among other birds, as well as a variety of tropical flowers and trees along it's smaller inlets. Then after a bit of lunch took a walking hike at another part of this national park where we got a better view of snakes, howler monkey's, sloths and a variety of smaller birds. Very enjoyable. Our guide said we were only one of two nature hiking tours she did this month. The rest were all in town to museums, beaches, landmarks, bars etc.
Iguana resting in the trees.

Friday 7th Our next destination was western Panama, but since our plane didn't leave until noon we walked another part of town in the morning hoping for cooler temperatures while sticking to the shade as much as possible. At the airport the lady representative didn't want to let my take my small carry on with our computer and other valuables as it had wheels. This caused us problems as we had to repack everything into a bag. We couldn't understand this seemingly arbitrary rule and had never come across it before. From here we flew into David the second largest town where our driver took us to Boquete, a small quaint town in the middle of the western part of Panama. Our B&B was one of about a dozen hexagon cabins set in a well manicured jungle garden. It was spacious and well laid out with a complete small kitchen which I we always appreciate as we sometimes opt just to get a few groceries and stay at 'home'. Unfortunately we had few supplies and the hotel had no restaurant. But they said there was one just a 10 minute walk down the road. Not only was it an interesting walk, but it was a very nice restaurant with only a few people eating. In spite of all the empty tables they asked if we had reservations and give us the impression it might be a problem. But we did secure a nice spot and had two good beers and some interesting entrees.
		Our Boquete Garden Inn

		Saturday the 8th After a breakfast of fresh fruits, guava juice, banana pancakes and eggs, we were ready to start the day. This morning we had a tour of the Don Pepe coffee plantation about a half hour away in the highlands. We enjoyed the scenery on the way up and back and the plantation grounds and processing plant, but the lecture on the company and tasting afterwards which took an hour didn't impress us much. Neither one of us were able to taste the subtle differences he claimed, or smell all his floral descriptions. To us they all pretty much tasted and smelled the same. Perhaps we're just dark roast people or need an olfactory overhaul. But the education on how coffee it tested was appreciated. At our request our driver dropped us off at Baquete as it was still early. For a supposed burgeoning tourist town we were a bit disappointed. Sidewalks were almost non existent or dirt. Many buildings were rough or unkempt with construction debris barely hidden. And all those beautiful tile roofs we saw from the air were actually thin metal tiles. There was one nice mall but almost half the shops were boarded up. Yet the remaining part did have a certain charm. We headed to the one of the most recommended restaurants and that was clean and enjoyable. It was a long ways back to our cabin and we debated hailing a cab. But as it was early we opted to just enjoy a leisurely walk. That wound up to be the highlight of our day with all the interesting vegetation, unique houses some of which were grand, rivers and bridges all in a park like setting. Using the food bought in town we just relaxed in our room the rest of the evening and enjoyed a movie afterwards on our laptop as we were able to stream Netflix.
A tour of the coffee plantation

Sunday the 9th Today the Parque Internacional La Amistad was on our agenda. It spans Costa Rica and Panama boarders and means ' international friendship'. Another great tour guide drove us back up the mountain to the park entrance and then led us up a jungle hike pointing out not only the flora and fauna, but lots of bugs, butterflies, poisonous shrubs as well as the life of indigenous people in the area. He then waited for us in Baquete while we got some groceries before driving us back. After waiting for the rain to slacken we took another hike up from our room which was a kick as there was quite a contrast in appearance between native housing and resorts. We were told our local restaurant would be full tonight due to some social event, a game I think. It was then that I discovered I couldn't make a call due to having only data which didn't include a phone number. But the hotel called for us and just as before the place was mostly empty.
		Bridge & forest at the Parque Internacional

		Monday the 10th Our ride came early and we said good bye to some friends we met at our B&B before heading first southeast and then north to our next stop the Island of Boca de Toro which means 'mouth of the bull'. It was a long three hour ride but our driver of very limited English tried to point out sights along the way including some sloths. He must have been very sharp eyed as even after stopping and endless finger pointing we had a hard time seeing them. Our 'ferry terminal was at Chiriqui Grande where they checked in our luggage but we didn't see a ferry boat, just lots of small boats with outboards. While waiting we joked about one of those being the 'economy' ferry. Well to our surprise and shock they were the ferries or as they called them 'water taxi's'. They threw our luggage in the back then hustled about 12 of us in front like sardines for a 45 minute kidney jarring ride to our island. I now know what it must be like for Cubans trying to make it to Florida. But we had a unique cottage right over the water on stilts overlooking the bustling harbor on one side and the hotel pool on the other with Islands in the distance. It was intriguing.
The Tropical Suites Hotel

Tuesday the 11th Breakfast was right by the pool overlooking the bay not 20 feet from our room. Our ride was suppose to arrive by 9:15 and by 9:40 we were concerned. Right after that he came only to drive us two blocks we could have easily walked. Then onto another water taxi with images of Christ painted on. He may have thought in this line of work a little extra protection wouldn't hurt. Our first stop was the Bay of Porpoises where we saw quite a few, but I only brought my cell phone due to the wet environment and it was very difficult to get a good telephoto shot. None the less it was fun to see them breach the surface and occasionally do flips. Then onto Isla Bastimentos where we stopped at a lonely restaurant outpost to order lunch for those who didn't bring theirs like they told us to. After that on to a little spot called Cayo Coral where we anchored in shallow water to do some skin diving. It was hard to get into the water, the bottom wasn't that interesting and I should have put on the mask and snorkel before getting into the water. Plus the current kept sweeping us away from the boat. So after 15 minutes in the water Mimi and I called it quits. Our next stop was the small Isla Cayo Zapatilla way out in the bay. As it took about a half hour to get there I was hoping it was worth it. Well, it was not only the highlight of the day, but perhaps of the whole trip. It was the archetypal tropical island most people have in mind of sandy beaches, palm trees, coconuts, lush vegetation etc. Plus it had a nice sandy trail that went down the islands center and then returned by the beaches giving a good overall view. After that we went back to the restaurant where most people ate their fresh fish or lobster lunches they ordered while we had our bag lunch of healthy granola and vegetable chips like they told us to bring. The rewards of being responsible.
		Our restaurant on stilts with this boardwalk to the bathrooms


Interior of the Isla Cayo Zapatilla		It's beaches

		Wednesday the 12th. Our friendly native guide picked us up early for a drive to the north eastern part of the island for another jungle tour we thoroughly enjoyed - except for the rain. I only had on a shirt but Mimi thoughtfully brought her rain jacket. Well she shortly took it off as even with that light jacket it quickly grew intolerably hot. But it stopped after about 15 minutes and we dried fairly quickly. On the way back we stopped at a beautiful lush jungle cafe set right on the beach and ordered some food. But to make amends from yesterdays lunch, that evening we walked two blocks to a nice local restaurant with a balmy breeze overlooking the sapphire bay and ordered some good Panamanian beer along with some of the best fish and chips ever due to being freshly caught.
Baby sloth and mother


Freighter navigating the canal		View from our hotel room at dusk

Thursday the 13th Since our flight back to Panama City wasn't until 1pm, we had enough time to hike part of the island. On the way we accidentally ran into our guide from yesterday and she gave us a big hug. That says something about some of the nice people we met here and friendliness that goes beyond work. The town wasn't much. Lots of repair challenged housing mixed in with some nicer and well kept hotels and B&B's. The cemetery for example was mostly tiled rectangle boxes that were falling apart instead of ground burials with a modest solid stone, cement or even wood headstone which would have lasted longer and looked better. By noon we were back in our room. I blacked out the silver wheels of my carry on, carried it like a backpack to keep it hidden from the airline attendant. It worked and they didn't take it away which made my day! At the Panama City airport we were very concerned about our driver not being there. But 5 minutes later he came huffing and puffing in saying there was a presidential motorcade going on and all parking spots had been taken. I suggested we should join the end of the motorcade for faster travel to the city. We had the same hotel and a few hours later went back to our favorite Casa Alejandro Restaurante that in the past was mostly empty only to find it was completely reserved! Not knowing where to go we took them up on their offer to sit at the bar. Well the server while having limited English, was very personable and became our private host as he had no other customers. We wound up having a good time.		Friday the 14th. We spent the morning packing and then waited for our driver again with some concern (seems we always need something to worry about) but he came 5 minutes early. We asked about our non reclining seat on the previous flight and the stoic attendant said we'd have to go on line to address any issues. The flight back to San Francisco was a little shorter and our seats did recline thankfully. After getting our luggage we waited outside for about 20 minutes and with a low 50's degrees and blowing winds it felt like the arctic after Panama's heat. By the time we got our car it was 7:30 and we hoped that rush hour was over. While traffic was very heavy, it did mostly keep moving. At home we unpacked a little, then made a light dinner and flopped into bed about 10, which was about 1am in the morning Panama time.

Notes:

Somehow we had the impression this was to be a small group tour. Well they informed us it was, just Mimi and I. But we got waited on and catered to constantly plus stayed at some of the nicest hotels. Then again at a 5 figure cost it was one of our more expensive trips.

The heat was oppressive and I sweated constantly and Mimi felt faint sometimes. After the second or third day we vowed never to go back to a hot humid country.

If someone were to plan this trip themselves, it would cost half as much. But it would take a lot of work and planning. Plus it would be hard to find some of the wonderful guides we had.

We had no problems with crime and felt safe everywhere. The only complaint was aggressive hawking among a few young people at two tourist spots.

Electricity is 120 volts and their plugs are identical to ours, so no adapters are necessary.

		As our Spanish was limited we used GoWay, and while not cheap, they did a great job. To our surprise, we found Copa airlines out of San Francisco had a non stop right to Panama City, which always saves worry about connecting flights and luggage. The bad news is they assigned us different seats than the ones we paid for and they didn't recline. And the flight took off about 1am in the morning which made for very little sleep. We had a driver waiting for us at the airport who took us right to our Bristol Panama hotel about 40 minutes away. As we were on the 7th floor we had a good view of the skyscraper dotted city. As it was early, we had the afternoon free and took off towards the Pacific or south (Panama runs east to west) for a view of the coast, some parks and the city in general. Unfortunately the heat was so oppressive we only lasted about two hours before heading back to our air conditioned room.
View of the city from our modern Bristol hotel